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What Is Silver, Exactly? A Guide to Recycled, Sterling, Fine & Argentium Silver Jewellery

Jude Webster Jewellery logo and some silver commission pieces

What Is Silver?

(Exploring sterling, fine, and Argentium silver — and why I choose recycled materials for my handcrafted jewellery.)

 

Introduction

Silver has always held a special place in jewellery making — timeless, radiant, and full of character. But not all silver is the same. From traditional sterling to the purity of fine silver and the innovation of Argentium, each has its own story and strengths.

At Jude Webster Jewellery, based in North Yorkshire, I create one-of-a-kind pieces using recycled sterling silver, fine silver, and occasionally Argentium silver — all crafted with care, respect, and a deep appreciation for the materials and their origins.

 

Sterling Silver — The Classic Choice

Sterling silver is perhaps the best-known form of silver used in jewellery. It’s made up of 92.5% pure silver, with the remaining 7.5% usually copper. That small addition gives it strength and durability — essential for pieces that are worn every day.

Pros:

• Strong and durable for everyday wear

• Beautiful, bright shine

• Perfect for rings, bangles, and other regular-use pieces

Cons:

• Can tarnish over time (though it’s easy to clean)

• Slightly less “white” in colour than fine or Argentium silver

I love working with sterling silver because it holds up beautifully in daily wear yet still carries that unmistakable warmth and lustre of silver.

 

Fine Silver — Pure and Gentle

Fine silver is the purest form used in jewellery, made up of 99.9% silver. It has a wonderfully soft, buttery surface and a gentle, almost glowing sheen.

Pros:

• Hypoallergenic and naturally resistant to tarnish

• Soft, luminous finish and colour

• Ideal for delicate or detailed pieces

Cons:

• Softer and more prone to scratching or bending

• Less suited for heavy-duty wear (like rings or bangles)

I sometimes use fine silver for small, detailed work  such as a bezel setting or where I want a slightly softer aesthetic, such as in hand-formed pendants. 

 

Fine Silver Clay — Modern Alchemy

One of my favourite materials to work with is fine silver clay., It starts as a soft, malleable clay made from recycled fine silver particles mixed with a natural binder and water. This allows it to be shaped, carved, and textured by hand — perfect for creating organic, one-of-a-kind designs.

Once the piece is dry and refined, it’s fired in a kiln or with a torch. During firing, the binder burns away, and the silver particles fuse together to form solid 99.9% pure fine silver. The result is real, precious metal — just like any other fine silver, but formed through an incredibly tactile, creative process.

Pros:

• Made from recycled silver, making it an eco-conscious choice

• Ideal for detailed textures, imprints, and organic shapes

• Fires into pure fine silver (99.9%)

Cons:

• Slightly softer than sterling, so best for pendants, earrings, and keepsake pieces

• Requires careful drying and firing to achieve the best finish

Silver clay allows me to work more intuitively — shaping and forming by hand, rather than sawing and soldering. It’s a wonderful blend of traditional silversmithing and modern innovation, and it means no two pieces will ever be the same.

 

Argentium Silver — The Modern Innovator

Argentium silver is a more modern form of silver that takes the traditional sterling alloy and improves upon it. It’s available in two grades — Argentium 935 and Argentium 960 — both of which have a higher silver content than standard 925 sterling silver. Instead of being alloyed purely with copper, Argentium includes a small amount of germanium, which gives it some remarkable properties.

Pros:

• Highly tarnish-resistant, staying brighter for longer

• Whiter and more reflective than traditional sterling

• Easier to care for — a light polish restores its shine beautifully

• More environmentally friendly to produce, often made using recycled silver

Cons:

• Slightly more expensive and not as widely available as sterling

• Behaves a little differently under heat, so it requires careful handling when soldering

Argentium is a wonderful example of how traditional materials can evolve. It combines the beauty and versatility of sterling silver with the low-maintenance qualities we all appreciate — making it an excellent choice for modern, responsibly made jewellery.

 

Where Silver Comes From

Silver is mined all over the world — often as a by-product of copper, lead, or gold mining. Unfortunately, traditional mining can have a heavy environmental impact, disturbing landscapes and ecosystems. That’s one of the reasons I choose to use recycled silver wherever possible.

My recycled sterling comes from trusted UK suppliers who refine and reclaim silver from scrap jewellery, electronics, and other silver-bearing materials. The reclaimed silver is purified to the same standard as newly mined metal — meaning there’s no difference in quality, only in conscience.

 

Why Recycled Matters

Working with recycled silver allows me to create pieces that not already tell a story but continue, giving new life to materials that already exist. It aligns with my belief that beauty should never come at the cost of the planet. Every piece I make carries that quiet intention — care, respect, and a deep appreciation for the world that inspires it.

 

In conclusion:

Silver isn’t just silver. It’s history, craftsmanship, and responsibility — all bound together in metal that has captured human imagination for millennia. Whether it’s sterling, fine, Argentium, or fine silver clay, it’s a joy to work with — especially when it’s reborn from recycled roots.

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For the love of Handmade Silver Jewellery, what’s in your Silver?

Silver Moon Necklace with Argentium Sterling Silver and Apatite & Blue Topaz Gemstones. Handmade in the UK, perfect one of a kind gift.

I’ve always loved Sterling Silver Jewellery and during the 1990’s I found that the silver I owned turned my fingers and ears black rather quickly, which is never a good look. Fast forward to 2024 and I now know (in spades) why this was the case. Sterling Silver is an alloy, which means it is pure Silver mixed with other metals, namely Copper. As Silver is a soft metal it needs the Copper in the alloy so it can be work hardened and stand up to daily wear. Copper is however, unfortunatley the main reason why Silver turns your skin black or even green..

Little did I know that mid 1990’s a Master Silversmith, Peter Johns was working at Middlesex University to come up with a superior Sterling Silver alloy. He found that by adding in Germanium to the alloy this gave a brighter Silver colour (just like Platinum), made the Silver harder and more importantly it was much more resistant to that black tarnishing that upset me so much and many others in the 90’s.

I now only work with Argentium Silver, it is produced from recycled silver so kinder to the environment and manufactured under strict standards in the EU, Italy to be precise by the Legor group. Invented in the UK by a Master Silversmith and beautiful to wear and work with.

I find it interesting that today a lot of Sterling Silver Jewellery is Rhodium plated to give it a white silver shine when we have Argentium at our fingertips to work with. Argentium also now has a silver content of 94% 940 compared with 92.5% 925 in traditional Sterling alloys. I won’t even start on some of the more dangerous metals like Cadmium and Lead which have been found in some cheap imported Silver Jewellery from UK testing in recent years. It makes me very happy that all of my lovely customers get the best and safest Silver in their jewellery pieces.

If you would like to find out more about Argentium Silver I thouroughly recommend checking out https://www.argentiumguild.com/ where you will find lots of beautiful work from fellow Jewellers working in Argentium Silver and more information about Argentium. For now I am back to making some special everyday pieces along with using up my very large collection of natural gemstones for some One of a Kinds that need to be worn out one day soon.

Have a lovely week x

Sonja Gascoigne – Artisan Jeweller/Fate Jewellery, Mum to two special girls & supporter of people with Neuro Diverse Conditions amongst other titles 😉